Walks in Rome

Hotels.-For passing travellers or bachelors, the best are: Hotel d'Angleterre, Bocca di Leone; Hotel de Rome, Corso. For families, or for a long residence: Hotel des Iles Britanniques, Piazza del Popolo; Hotel de Russie (close to the last), Via Babuino; Hotel de Londres, and Hotel Europa, Piazza di Spagna; Hotel Costanzi, Via S. Nicolo in Tolentino, in a high airy situation towards the railway-station, and very comfortable and well managed, but further from the sights of Rome.

Less expensive, are: Hotel d'Allemagne, Via Condotti; Hotel Vittoria, Via Due Macelli; Hotel d'Italie, Via Quattro Fontane; Hotel della Pace, 8 Via Felice; Hotel Minerva, Piazza della Minerva, very near the Pantheon. A large new hotel is the "Quirinale," in the Via Nazionale.

Pensions are much wanted in Rome. The best are those of Miss Smith and Madame Tellenbach, in the Piazza di Spagna; Pension Suez, Via S. Nicolo in Tolentino; and the small Hotel du Sud, in the Capo le Case.

Apartments have lately greatly increased in price. An apartment for a very small family in one of the best situations can seldom be obtained for less than 300 to 500 francs a month. The English almost all prefer to reside in the neighbourhood of the Piazza di Spagna. The best situations are the sunny side of the Piazza itself, the Trinità de' Monti, the Via Gregoriana, and Via Sistina. Less good situations are, the Corso, Via Condotti, Via Due Macelli, Via Frattina, Capo le Case, Via Felice, Via Quattro Fontane, Via Babuino, and Via delle Croce,-in which last, however, are many very good apartments. On the other side of the Corso suites of rooms are much less expensive, but they are less convenient for persons who make a short residence in Rome. In many of the palaces are large apartments which are let by the year.

Trattorie (Restaurants) send out dinners to families in apartments in a tin box with a stove, for which the bearer calls the next morning. A dinner for six francs ought to be amply sufficient for three persons, and to leave enough for luncheon the next day. Restaurants where luncheons or dinners may be obtained upon the spot, are those of Bedeau, Via della Croce, and Nazzari, Piazza di Spagna. Those who wish for a real Roman dinner of Porcupine, Hedgehog, and other such delicacies, find it at the Falcone, where Ariosto used to lodge when in Rome.

English Church.-Just outside the Porta del Popolo, on the left. Services at 9 A.M., 11 A.M., and 3 P.M. on Sundays; daily service twice on week-days. The American Church is in the same building, with an entrance further on.

Post Office.-In the Piazza Colonna. The English mail leaves daily at 8 P.M.

Telegraph Office.-121 Piazza Monte-Citorio. A telegraph of 20 words to England, including name and address, costs 11 francs.

Bankers.-Hooker, 20 Piazza di Spagna; Macbean, 378 Corso; Plowden, 50 Via Mercede; Spada and Flamini, 20 Via Condotti.

For sending Boxes to England.-Welby, Strada Papala. (His agents in London, Messrs. Scott, 11 King William St.)

English Doctors.-Dr. Grigor, 3 Pa di Spagna; Dr. Small, 56 Via Babuino; Dr. Gason, 82 Via della Croce. German: Dr. Taussig, 144 Via Babuino. American: Dr. Gould, 107 Via Babuino. Italian: Dr. Valeri, 138 Via Babuino.

Hom?opathic Doctor.-Dr. Liberali, 69 Via della Frezza.

Dentist.-Dr. Parmby, 93 Piazza di Spagna.

Sick-nurses.-Mrs. Meyer, 44 Via delle Carozze; the Nuns of the Bon-Secours at the convent in the Via del Banchi.

Chemists.-English Pharmacy, 498 Corso; Sininberghi, 134 Via Frattina; and Borioni, Via Babuino, are those usually employed by the English; but the chemists' shops in the Corso are as good, and much less expensive.

English House Agent.-Shea, 11 Piazza di Spagna.

English Livery Stables.-Jarrett, 3 Piazza del Popolo; Ranucci, Vicolo Aliberti.

Circulating Library.-Piale, 1, 2, Piazza di Spagna.

Booksellers.-Monaldini, Piazza di Spagna; Spithover, Piazza di Spagna; Bocca, 216 Corso; Loesther, 346 Corso.

Italian Masters.-Vannini, 31 Via Condotti (in the summer at the Bagni di Lucca); Monachesi (a Roman), 8 Via S. Sebastianello; Gordini, 374 Corso; N. Lucantini, 17 Via della Stamperia.

Photographers.-For views of Rome.-Watson, Via Babuino; Macpherson, 12 Vicolo Aliberti; Mang, 104 Via Felice; Anderson (his photographs sold at Spithover's); Joseph Phelps, 169 Via Babuino; Maggi, 329 Corso. For Artistic Bits, very much to be recommended, De Bonis, 11 Via Felice. For Portraits.-Suscipi, 48 Via Condotti (the best for medallions); Alessandri, 12 Corso (excellent for Cartes de Visite); Lais, 57 Via del Campo-Marzo; Ferretti, 50 Via Sta. Maria in Via.

Drawing Materials.-Dovizelli, 136 Via Babuino; Corteselli, 150 Via Felice. For commoner articles and stationery, the "Cartoleria," 214 Corso, opposite the Piazza Colonna.

Engravings.-At the Stamperia Nazionale (fixed prices), 6 Via della Stamperia, near the fountain of Trevi.

Antiquities.-Depoletti, 31 Via Fontanella Borghese; Innocenti, 118 Via Frattina; Santelli, 141 Via Frattina; Capobianchi, 152 Via Babuino.

Bronzes.-R?hrich, 104 Via Sistina; Chiapanelli, 92 Via Babuino; Dressler, 17 Via Due Macelli.

Cameos.-Saulini, 96 Via Babuino; Neri, 72 Via Babuino.

Mosaics.-Rinaldi, 125 Via Babuino; Boschetti, 74 Via Condotti.

Jewellers.-Castellani, 88 Via Poli (closed from 12 to 1), very beautiful, but very expensive; Pierret, 20 Piazza di Spagna; Innocenti, 33 Piazza Trinità de' Monti.

Roman Pearls.-Rey, 122 Via Babuino; Lacchini, 70 Via Condotti.

Bookbinder.-Olivieri, 1 Via Frattina.

Engraver.-(For visiting cards, &c.), Martelli, 139 Via Frattina.

Tailors.-Mattina (the "Poole" of Rome), Corso, opposite S. Carlo, entrance 2 Via delle Carozze; Vai, 60 Piazza di Spagna; Reanda, 61 Piazza. S. Apostoli; Evert, 77 Piazza Borghese.

Shoemakers.-Rubini, 223 Corso (none good).

Dressmaker.-Clarisse, 166 Corso.

Shops for Ladies' Dress.-Massoni, Palazzo Simonetti; the Ville de Lyon, 48 Via dei Prefetti (behind S. Lorenzo in Lucina); Sebastiani, 8 Via del Campo-Marzo; Giovannetti, 50 to 53 Campo-Marzo.

Roman Ribbons and Shawls.-Arvotti, 66 Piazza Madama (fixed prices); Bianchi, 82 Via della Minerva.

Gloves.-Cremonesi, 420 Corso; 4 Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina.

Carpets and small Household Articles.-Cagiati, 250 Corso.

German Baker.-Colalucci, 88 Via della Croce (excellent).

English Grocer.-Lowe, 76 Piazza di Spagna.

Italian Grocer and Wine Merchant.-Giacosa, Via della Maddalena.

Oil, Candles and Wood, &c.-Luigioni, 70 Piazza di Spagna.

English Dairy.-Palmegiani, 66 Piazza di Spagna.

Artists' Studios.-

Benonville, 61 Via Babuino,-landscapes.

Brennan, 76 Via Borghetto.

Coleman, 16 Via dei Zucchelli,-very good for animals.

Corrodi, 25 Angelo-Custode,-water-colour landscapes, very highly finished.

Desoulavy, 33 Via Margutta,-landscapes.

Fattorini, Via Margutta,-a very beautiful copyist.

Flatz, 3 Mario di Fiori,-sacred subjects.

Haseltine, J. H., 59 Via Babuino.

*Joris, 33 Via Margutta,-quite first-rate for figure subjects in water-colour.

Garelli, 217 Ripetta,-an admirable copyist, generally to be found in the Capitoline Gallery.

*Glennie, 17 Piazza Margana,-water-colour, first-rate.

Knebel, 33 Via Margutta,-oil landscapes.

Maes, 33 Via Margutta.

*Marianecci, 53 Via Margutta,-the prince of copyists.

Muller, 60 Piazza Barberini,-water-colour landscapes.

Podesti, 55 Via Margutta,-oil: large historical and sacred subjects.

Poingdestre, 36 Vicolo dei Greci-oil: landscapes.

Buchanan Read, 55 Via Margutta.

*Rivière, 36 Vicolo dei Greci,-water-colour.

De Sanctis, 33 Via Margutta.

Strutt (Arthur), 81 Via della Croce,-landscapes and figures, both oil and water-colour.

Tapiro (Spanish), 72 Sistina,-admirable for figures.

Tilton, 20 Via S. Basilio,-remarkable for his drawings of the Nile.

Vertunni, 53 Via Margutta.

Wedder, 55A Via Margutta.

*Penry Williams, 12 Piazza Mignanelli.

Sculptors' Studios.-

D'Epinay, 57 Via Sistina.

Fabj-Altini, 4 S. Nicolo in Tolentino.

Miss Foley, 53 Via Margutta,-admirable for medallion portraits and

busts, also the author of a beautiful fountain.

*Miss Hosmer, 118 Via Margutta-(Gibson's studio).

Miss Lewis, 8 Via S. Nicolo in Tolentino.

Macdonald, 7 Piazza Barberini.

Rosetti, 55 Via Margutta.

Story, 2 Via S. Nicolo in Tolentino.

Tadolini, 150A Via Babuino.

Wood (Shakspeare), 504 Corso,-excels in medallion portraits.

Wood (Warrington), 7 Piazza Trinità de' Monti.

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It is impossible for a traveller who spends only a week or ten days in Rome to see a tenth part of the sights which it contains. Perhaps the most important objects are:

Churches.-S. Peter's, S. John Lateran, Sta. Maria Maggiore, S. Lorenzo fuori Mura, S. Paoli fuori Mura, S. Agnese fuori Mura, Ara C?li, S. Clemente, S. Pietro in Montorio, S. Pietro in Vincoli, Sta. Sabina, Sta. Prassede and Sta. Pudentiana, S. Gregorio, S. Stefano Rotondo, Sta. Maria sopra Minerva, Sta. Maria del Popolo.

Palaces.-Vatican, Capitol, Borghese, Barberini (and, if possible, Corsini, Colonna, Sciarra, Rospigliosi, and Spada).

Villas.-Albani, Doria, Borghese, Wolkonski, and, though less important, Ludovisi.

Ruins.-Palace of the C?sars, Temples in Forum, Coliseum, and, if possible, the ruins in the Ghetto, and the Baths of Caracalla.

It is desirable for the traveller who is pressed for time to apply at once to his Banker for orders for any of the villas for which they are necessary. The following scheme will give a good general idea of Rome and its neighbourhood in a few days. The sights printed in italics can only be seen on the days to which they are ascribed:-

Monday.-General view of Capitol, Gallery of Sculpture, Ara C?li, General view of Forum, Coliseum, St. John Lateran (with cloisters), and drive out to the Via Latina and the aqueducts at Tavolato.

Tuesday.-Morning: St. Peter's and the Vatican Stanze. Afternoon: Villa Albani, St. Agnese, and drive to the Ponte Nomentana.

Wednesday.-Go to Tivoli (the Cascades, Cascatelle, and Villa d'Este).

Thursday.-Morning: Palace of the C?sars. Afternoon: drive on the Via Appia as far as Torre Mezzo Strada; in returning, see the Baths of Caracalla.

Friday.-Morning: Palazzo Borghese, Palazzo Spada, The Ghetto, The Temple of Vesta, cross the Ponte Rotto to Sta. Cecilia; and end in the afternoon at St. Pietro in Montorio and the Villa Doria (or on Monday).

Saturday.-Frascati and Albano. Drive to Frascati early, take donkeys, by Rocca di Papa to Mte. Cavo; take luncheon at the Temple, and return by Palazzuolo and the upper and lower Galleries to Albano, whither the carriage should be sent on to await you at the Hotel de Russie. Drive back to Rome in the evening.

Sunday.-Morning: Sta. Maria del Popolo on way to English Church. Afternoon: St. Peter's again; drive to Monte Mario (Villa Mellini), or in the Villa Borghese, and end with the Pincio.

2d Monday.-Morning: Sta. Prassede, Sta. Pudentiana, Sta. Maria Maggiore. Afternoon: Sta. Sabina, Priorato Garden, English Cemetery, S. Paolo, and the Tre Fontane.

2d Tuesday.-Morning: Vatican Sculptures. Afternoon: S. Gregorio, S. Stefano Rotondo, S. Clemente, S. Pietro in Vincoli, Sta. Maria degli Angeli, S. Lorenzo fuori Mura, and drive out to the Torre dei Schiavi, returning by the Porta Maggiore.

2d Wednesday.-Morning: Palazzo Barberini, Palazzo Rospigliosi, (and on Saturdays) Vatican Pictures. Afternoon: Forum in detail, SS. Cosmo and Damian, and ascend the Coliseum.

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The following list may be useful as a guide to some of the best subjects for artists who wish to draw at Rome, and have not much time to search for themselves:-

Morning Light:

Temple of Vesta with the fountain.

Arch of Constantine from the Coliseum (early).

Coliseum from behind Sta. Francesca Romana (early).

Temples in the Forum from the School of Xanthus.

View from the Garden of the Rupe Tarpeia.

In the Garden of S. Giovanni e Paolo.

In the Garden of S. Buonaventura.

In the Garden of the S. Bartolomeo in Isola.

In the Garden of S. Onofrio.

On the Tiber from Poussin's Walk.

From the door of the Villa Medici.

At S. Cosimato.

At the back entrance of Ara C?li.

At the Portico of Octavia.

Looking to the Arch of Titus up the Via Sacra.

In the Cloister of the Lateran.

In the Cloister of the Certosa.

Near the Temple of Bacchus.

On the Via Appia, beyond Cecilia Metella.

Torre Mezza Strada on the Via Appia.

Torre Nomentana, looking to the mountains.

Ponte Nomentana, looking to the Mons Sacer.

Torre dei Schiavi, looking towards Tivoli.

Aqueducts at Tavolato.

Evening Light:

From St. John Lateran.

From the Ponte Rotto.

From the Terrace of the Villa Doria (St. Peter's).

Palace of the C?sars-Roman side-looking to Sta. Balbina.

Palace of the C?sars-French side-looking to the Coliseum.

Apse of S. Giovanni e Paolo.

Near the Navicella.

Garden of the Villa Mattei.

Garden of the Villa Wolkonski.

Garden of the Priorato.

Porta S. Lorenzo.

Torre dei Schiavi, looking towards Rome.

Via Latina, looking towards the Aqueducts.

Via Latina, looking towards Rome.

The months of November and December are the best for drawing. The colouring is then magnificent; it is enhanced by the tints of the decaying vegetation, and the shadows are strong and clear. January is generally cold for sitting out, and February wet; and before the end of March the vegetation is often so far advanced that the Alban Hills, which have retained glorious sapphire and amethyst tints all winter, change into commonplace green English downs; while the Campagna, from the crimson and gold of its dying thistles and fenochii, becomes a lovely green plain waving with flowers.

Foreigners are much too apt to follow the native custom of driving constantly in the Villa Borghese, the Villa Doria, and on the Pincio, and getting out to walk there during their drives. For those who do not care always to see the human world, a delightful variety of drives can be found; and it is a most agreeable plan for invalids, without carriages of their own, to take a "course to the Parco di San Gregorio," or to the sunny avenues near the Lateran, and walk there instead of on the Pincio. A carriage for the return may almost always be found in the Forum or at the Lateran.