nds-Macao-Disappointment-Return to France-Discoveries made by Bass and Flinders upon the Australian coast-Captain Baudin's expedition-Endracht and De Witt Islands-Stay at Timor-Survey of Van Diemen's

Edels, Endracht, and De Witt-Seco

arious articles of trade. Like a sensible man, Marchand allowed his companion to talk, and only put in a few words himself now and again, and thus drew from Portlock the interesting information that furs, and more especially otter

the Pacific Ocean required a ship of special strength and excellence. MM. Baux ordered the construction of a vessel of 300 tons' burden, plated with copper, and provided with every necessary for

the rest of the party consisted of three lieutenants, two surgeons, three volunteers, and a crew of thirty-nin

Verde Islands, Marchand proceeded to Staten Island, which he reached upon the 1st of April, 1791. He then doubled Tierra del Fuego, and entered the Pacific. His intenti

h the Marquesas Islands of Mendoza which are situated

voyage, "was the more suitable for his purpose, because with a view to escaping the calms ofte

za, and visited by Cook in 1774. Magdalena Island, the mos

-three days from the time of leaving Staten Island, without having noticed any land whatever. Constant astronomical observations alone ensured the saf

ristina, and Hood Island, the most northerly of the group, and finally anchored in Madre

ptain decided upon visiting the remaining bays of Santa Cristina Island, which he f

f accurate observations of the manners and customs of the inhabitants. We will

e effect is by no means bad. The way of arranging the hair varies, and fashion is as despotic in the Marquesas as in other countries. Some wear necklaces of red beads, others a string of small pieces of light wood. Although both men and women have their ears pierced, ear-rings are not usually worn. But a

called the brandy, which was offered them on the Solide, by the name of the pepper-plant. It appeared tha

ted in offering to a friend a piece of food which had been already chewed, that he might have no trouble but that of swallowing it. We may easil

t Santa Cristina is subject to inundations. In the exhibition at the Trocadero, one of these stilts, extremely well made and carved, was exh

e natives of Santa Cristina pass their time in singing, dancing, and amusing themselves. The common expression of

the older navigators or to Cook. Upon a clear evening, at sunset, he noticed a spot upon the horizon, which had the appearance of a lofty peak. As this appeared se

7° south latitude. He gave his own name to the most important of them. The natives were evidently of the same race as that which peopled the Marquesas. Shortly afterwards several other islands were discovered;

liam's Sound or Cook's River, on the sixth parallel. Marchand accordingly resolved upon making for Engano

on, ten of which only were passed in port, at Praya and Madre-de-Dios, and after traversing some 5800 leagues of sea. This was certainly a wonderful fact, due to the prevision of the ship-

d Tchinkitané, Marchand bought a number of otter skin

y have round, flat faces, small, sunken, bleared eyes, an

and the black and red substances which they rub in. Their hair is coarse, thick, and bushy, covered with ochre, d

filthy habits make them repulsive. The coquetry which is innate in the female mind, induces them to add to their natural charms by the use

t of the mouth, into which they insert an iron or wooden skewer, and from time to time

wn the lower lip upon the chin, and developes the beauty of a large, gaping mouth, in shape not unlike an oven, revealing a row of dirty, yellow teeth. This bowl is removable at pleasure, and wh

tte's Islands, which had been discovered in 1786 by La Perouse. These islands extend over a distance of nearly seventy leag

Cox Strait, and began to tr

ome gigantic sculptures, which, although not bearing the very smallest comparison to the chef-d'oeuvres

soil, composed of the remains of plants and broken rocks, does not appear t

unlike Europeans in height and figure, the

southerly islands. The object of the expedition was the survey of the regions which had hitherto been unvisited. Dixon was the only navigator who had crossed these wa

ing the harbour from the south, which was precisely what Marchand had intended doing. This decided the French navigator to proceed immedi

, the heights of Mauna Loa, and Mauna-Koa were made out by the French. They seemed qui

He obtained pigs, fowls, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and various fruits from this island, and was deligh

e to China was resumed, and in due course Tin

resented to him. But the fact is, some fifty years earlier Tinian was flourishing and counted thirty thousand inhabitants, and the victorious Spaniards had s

of every navigator who had visited it since Byron, had relapse

the introduction of furs into the ports of the empire under most severe penalties. Was this the result of some unknown clause in a secr

good in that town also, and it was useless to think of reaching Whampoa, wher

nce return to Marseilles. It is unnecessary to describe the retu

s of the natives of Santa Christina in the same group, of Tchinkitané and Cloak Bays, and of Queen Charlotte's Islands off the American coast. Small as these results might appear for an official expedition, they were not unsatisfactory for a vessel equipped by private enterprise; moreover, Captain Marchand and his colleagues had turne

of the French Government, having for its object the survey of the Australian coast. Although the results of the voyage made by Nicolas Baudin were most a

upon his government the great advantages which would accrue from the founding of a colony in Botany Bay. In 1788, Philip, with his band of convicts, had laid the foundation of Port Jackson and of English power in this fifth c

harbour, which he named Western

ided with provisions for six weeks; still, by aid of fish and sea-birds, which he obtained in abundance, he succeeded in extending his voyage for another five weeks, although he had taken on board two convicts,

ome twenty-five tons' burden, he made the tour of Van Diemen's land. These brave adventurers collected facts, and made observations of the rivers and ports

eutenant. This vessel was especially equipped for a voyage of discovery upon the Australian coast. T

. This wonderful continent, with its strange unknown animals, and forests of gigantic eucalyptus, alternating with b

nment the organization of an expedition to the southern continent. As a result of their

mention, Leschenaut de Latour, Francois Péron, and Borg de Saint Vincent. Officers and sailors had been carefully selected. Among the first were Fran?ois-Andre Baudin, Peureux de Mélay, Hyacinthe de Bougainville, Charles Baudin, Emmanuel Hamelen, Pierre M

ding navigators, in the latitudes through which we were to pass, all that theories and reasoning could suggest, had been called into requisition. Most accurate calculation

Banks Straits, and thence, having determined the situation of the Hunter Islands, to pass behind St. Peter and St. Francis Islands, and survey the

, and a survey taken of Rottnest Island and the coast near it. From thence the expedition was to proceed to Shark Bay, to determine

ascertaining whether it was broken up into islands by various straits, the further portion of Gulf of Carpentaria was to be explored, var

mind which had laid down the route taken by La Perouse and D'Entrecasteaux. If th

nd the Naturaliste, a large transport ship,

best makers, a library of the most trustworthy authorities, passports couched in the most flattering terms and signed by every government in Europe,

rt stay was made at Port Santa Cruz in Teneriffe, and thence they proceeded without stopping to Mauritius, where

und weekly, and that the usual ration of wine was to be replaced by three-sixths of a bottle of the inferior tafia of Mauritius, whilst biscuits and sa

season was on the wane. Baudin, fearing to attempt to reach Van Diemen's Land, decided to commence his exploration upon the north-west co

graphy Bay, Naturalist Cape, Depuch Creek, and Piquet Point, were successively sighted and named

spend several days on shore, unable to obtain any but brackish water. They could not succeed in killing any sort of

waves had to be abandoned, together with guns, sabres, ca

f the Naturaliste. Swept away by the waves three times in his efforts to re-embark, he was finally swallowed up without the possibility

e rain fell uninterruptedly, and the Naturaliste was lost to

o Captain Hamilton in case of separation-Baudin, to the surprise of every o

soil, intercepted here and there by slight ravines. The coast is almost perpendicular, and is protected by inaccessible

r Islands (where troops of kangaroos were met with), and Dampier roadstead, we

t in Endr

e of early

surveyed. Much the same incidents and dangers were met with by the explorers as they successively named Hermit and Forester islands, the latter with volcanic soil. The Basseterre, in Geograph

shines unprotected by any clouds, and, except during the nocturnal storms, there is no movement even of t

where dangers of every sort assail him, and no provisions are to be had, to reflect that this barren country a

the survey of this miserable region. It is situated

elt, our store of water was very low, and there was no possibility of replenishing it in this miserable region. The time approached for the return

o direct his course to Timor Island, and he anchored the

here is a sameness in an account of them which is wearisome to the reader. We need only dwell upon the sore need of rest for the suffering crew: ten of

he remedies applied, it was succeeded by dysent

he Island

e of early

in Shark's Bay, that being the rendezvous appointed by Baudin, but which he had failed to keep. The officers availed themselve

rtog Island. One recorded the passage, upon the 25th of October, 1616, of the ship Eendraght, from Ams

inet Gulf; the eastern coast is all part of the mainland; and the western consists of the islet of Koks, Bernier, Doore, and Dirk Hartog Islands, and a small por

e temporary concord between Captain Baudin and his staff. He himself had bee

All the members of his staff disapproved of this action, and offered repeatedly many flattering tokens of their esteem and regard

leaving Timor upon the 13th of November, 1801. The French found themselves in sight of the southern coast of this i

, Hunter and Bligh, and the discovery of which was the result of a mistake, which might have had dangerous consequence

ilst on the right and left lofty hills shut it in, and present the appearance of a number of rounded capes and romantic creeks. Vegetation is most luxuriant, the shores abound in hardy trees, growing so densely that it is almost impossible to penetrate into the fore

wan R

e of early

ng-place were not equally pleased

. As they were about to re-embark the French were assailed by a shower of stones, one of which wounded Captain Hamelin severely. The natives brandished their

Beaupré has indeed fully merited the esteem of his fellow countrymen and the gratitude of all navigators. In every case where investigation was possible, this skilful engineer made sure of every point. His survey of the strait of D'Entrecasteaux, and the

ht gain a thorough knowledge of the coast. This undertaking, which was to complete the results of D'Entrecasteaux's exertions, detained the navigators until the 6th of February. The details and incidents of

ext proceeded to the exploratio

w a route parallel with that of the boat, of which it was never to lose sight for a moment; but M. Boullanger had scarcely been gone a quarter of an hour when Capt. Baudin, without any apparent reason, tacked round and gained the more open sea. The boat was lost to sight, and the coast was not neared again until

ppear to veil strong indign

two of his ablest officers? This is a problem which the mo

ng the south-western shore of New Holland, one portion of it only was known-that which extends from Cape Leuwin to St. Peter and St. Francis Islands. The land stretching from the eastern boundary of Nuytsland to Port Western had never ye

he Naturaliste, from which the Géographe had been separated by violent storms since the night of the 7-8 March. As the vessel was making rapid way, she was soon abreast of the Géographe. She carried the English colours. It was the Investigator, under command of Captain Flinders, eight months

seen on th

upon the western coast of which is Port Lincoln, the finest and safest harbour in New Holland-and the islands of St. Francis and St. Peter. Certainly Captain Baudin, in order to render this hydrographical survey

men were in a fit condition for duty. How could anything else be expected in a vessel which was not provided with either wine or brand

Port Jackson, and the shortest passage thither was by Bass's Strait. Baudin, who always appears to have disliked fo

e; a thick fog prevailed, and only the sound of the waves breaking upon the shore saved the vessels from running aground. The number of sick increased. The ocean claimed a fresh

ere carried

uraliste, after waiting vainly for her consort at Port Jackson, had gone in search of her-that the aba

impatience at Port Jackson, where hel

r the harbour, for want of able-bodied seamen to work her. An English sloop, with a p

containing water enough for the largest ships, and space enough to accommodate all comers in perfect s

of Sydney is situated. Built upon two adjacent hills, and watered by a small river w

k, and was brought from England in pieces by Commodore Philips. Immense warehouses, for the reception of the cargoes of the l

of Sy

e of early

and the governor of the fort could think of no more acceptable present for Captain Baudin than a piece of the wood of this famous vessel, mounted in silver, upon which the chief details of the discovery of Bass's Straits were engraved. Equally worthy of admiration

uct and condition of the conv

the distant shores of which we are speaking. Here are to be found the formidable ruffians who in a civilized country were the terror of their government. Transported to these foreign shores, ejected from European society, and placed from their first

in the maintenance of order and justice, for the sake of the preservation of such property as they have accumulat

f the women and wretched girls. By degrees accustomed to more correct principles

le facility for the prosecution of their researches was afforded to the naturalists, whilst the militar

ghted in examining the famous vineyards of Rose Hill, to which the finest plants f

anywhere else, but the first breath of wind from the north-west is enough to destr

lity, increased greatly; and although it has as yet not attained to any remark

eyond Sydney. Lieutenant Dawes and Captain Tench Paterson-who explored Hawkesbury River

and the excellence of the grass, had rendered New South Wales an

on; of these 514 were bulls, 121 oxen, and 1165 cows. The increase and growth of these animals was so rapid, that in less than eleven months the nu

ars, or even reducing the increase by one half, it is clear that New Sou

landowners of New South Wales, does not hesitate to assert, in a pamphlet published for that purpose, that in twenty years New Holland alone will be abl

t time they appeared most wonderful. It is interesting to read of the growth of this indu

ste back to France, after selecting the most healthy of the crew. She was replaced by a vessel of thirty tons burden, called the Casuarina, th

erent kinds, collected from the various countries which had been visited during the two years." Thirty-two huge cases contained these collections, certainly the richest ever brought toge

north-western portion of Van Diemen's Land, thus completing the geography of the coast of this huge island. From the 27th of December, 1802, till the 15th of F

th-west we had been charmed by the fertile islands of the Timor Archipelago, with their lofty mountains, rivers, streams, and forests. Yet scarcely forty-eight hours had passed since we left the desert shores of De

o face with the desolation, the description of which must already have wearied

gh survey which enabled them to decide positively that no great river discharges itself into the ocean in this region. The time for their return to Kangaroo Island had arrived. But in spite of their conviction that if they delayed they would be left behind,

Francis Archipelago alone-a most important undertaking, as no navigator had ex

n was not aware of this, and fancied himself the first Eu

bruary, the Casuarina had already arrived there, but in such a dama

only point throughout an extent of coast equal to the distance between Paris and St. Pete

ren. M. Boullanger in his "Journal" says, "The aspect of the country inland at

s wide as the Seine at Paris. He undertook to ascend it, and thus penetrated as far as possible into the interior of the country. About two leagues from the entrance

t of them above the low tide level, and much wide

ly pass through, but could not return, and were consequently imprisoned in

the third of a mile-a most singular proof of the ingenuity of the barbarous

Ransonnet, more fortunate than Vancouver and D'Entrecasteaux, had an interview wi

ain. The remaining five, first throwing their assegais to a distance, to convince us, probably, of their pacific intentions, assisted us in landing. At my suggestion, the sailors offered them various presents, which they received with an air of satisfa

rsistent. They probably employed them in hunting the kangaroo, which, with the fish that I had seen them pierce with their assegais, formed their staple food

short flat noses, sunken eyes, large mouths, with projecting lips, and fine and very

fifty years of age, had large black beards. Their teeth appeared to have been filed

tatooed at all. Their long hair was gathered into a chignon, powdered with

lked volubly, and sang in snatches, but always in the same key, and accompanied their song with the same gestures. In spite of the friendly fee

which were in turn visited and surveyed, between the 7th and the 26th of March. Thence Baudin proceeded to De Witt Land, which was almost unknown when he visited it the first time. He hoped to succe

e Géographe appear to be surrounded by reefs, although at the time she was a full league away from them, and every one on board the Casuar

ourable for an advance to the east. From thence he proceeded to Mauritius, where he died upon the 16th of September, 1803. It appears probable that the precarious state of his health had some influence upon hi

arrier

e of early

he 23rd of March, and three days later the vas

ndy, stuffed or dissected quadrupeds and birds, we had seventy large cases filled with vegetables in their natural state, comprising nearly

iving an extract from the report laid before the Government by the Institute, rel

ant new species are already recognized, and there still remain, according to the

of Carteret, Wallis, Furneaux, Meares, and even Vancouver, had not accumulated so many, and when we admit that the same statement applies to all succe

History of Voyages," subordinates Baudin's discoveries to those of Flinders. It was even suggested that Flinders was detained prisoner at Mauritius for six years and a

a place in the history of the discovery of the Australian coasts

as revised and corrected by Louis de Freycinet, Péron has given each his due meed of

PTE

N EXPL

ges to the Djoliba, or Niger-Sego-Timbuctoo-Sparmann and Lavaillant at the Cape, at Natal, and in the Interior-Lace

and various objects of interest. Although he himself never visited the southern portion of Algeria, he availed himself of the facts he was able to obtain from well-informed travellers, who

casionally ill-directed. But in spite of its shortcomings as a geographical history, it had a large value at the time of

may give an idea of

ring the day, and as a covering for the bed at night. It is a loose but troublesome garment, as it is often disarranged and slips down, so that the person who wears it is every moment obliged to tuck it up and rearrange it. This shows the great use there is of a girdle whenever men are in active employment, and explains the force of the Scripture injunction of having our loins girde

tle interest for us. We shall do better to turn our atten

d the authorities of his knowledge of medicine and acquaintance with the Arabic language, he

d him with his "Mémoire sur l'Afrique," and Broussonet gave him an introduction to a Turk from whom he obta

s. We must not omit to mention that the traveller had been presented by Monge and Berthollet to Napoleon Buonaparte, who was then in command

ed a cordi

kely to impose upon unsuspecting people. He then started, accompanied by a fellow-countryman named Joseph Frendenburg, who had been a Mussulman for more than twelve

small independent state, which acknowledges the Sultan, but is exempt from paying tribute. The town of Siwah is surrounded by several villages, at distances of a mile or two. It is

watered valley, about fifty miles in circumference, which is productive of corn

he penetrated to any distance in the ruins, he was followed by a number of the inhabitants, who prevented him from examining anything in

as his superficial examination enabled him to judge, it was really the

eller endeavoured vainly to obtain a perfect head from one of these burial-places. Amongst the skulls he procured, he found no certain proof that they had been

Schiatah he was denounced as a Christian and a spy. Horneman cleverly saved his life by boldly reading out a passage in the Koran which he had in his possession. Unfortunately, his interpreter, expecting that

r to no less than a hundred and twenty persons. After a long journey over a sandy desert, the caravan entered a country interspersed with hills and ravines, where they found trees and grass at intervals. This was the desert of Harutsch. It was necessary to cross it in order to reach Temissa, a town of little note, built upon a hill, and surrou

ree hundred miles from north to south, but to this must be added the mountainous region of Harutsch on the east, and the various deserts north and west. The climate is never pleasant; in summer the

hat, and the Soudan. Among the articles of commerce are male and female slaves, ostrich feathers, skins of wild beasts, and gold-dust or nuggets. Bornu produces copper; Cair

, pays a tribute of four thousand dollars to the Bey of Tripoli. Horneman, without giving the grounds of his calcula

s of the people. He ends his report to the African Society by saying th

at town. While still only partially recovered, he went to Tripoli for change and rest, hoping there to meet with Europeans. Upon the 1st of December, 1799, he returned to Murzu

side. More than one succeeded in reaching the interior, only to meet with repulse or death. The discovery of the secrets of this m

rising character, were convinced of its importance in the development of their commerce, and determined upon its exploration. But before proceeding to the narr

e of opposition, Adanson selected Senegal as the field of his labours. He says, in a manuscript letter, that he chose it because it was the most difficult to explore of all European settlem

first to undertake them, with so much enthusiasm, at his own cost, and without hope of reward. Upon his re

th of the Senegal, which he took to be the Niger of ancient geographers. During nearly five years he was engaged in exploring the colony in every direction, visiting in tu

f the habits of the grasshoppers, which form the chief food of certain wild tribes; of the white ants, and the dwellings

e bough to which they cling. They often cluster to the number of over two hundred on one branch, a

Ba

ographer to glean. A few words about the Yolofs and Mandingoes comprise all there is to learn

youth, part of which was passed with the English Embassy in Morocco, with the manners and customs of the Moors and the negroes of Senegambia. In 1790, he proposed to the African Society to explore the

Gambia, upon the 10th of November. Well received by the King of Barra, he followed the course of the Gambia t

Mendana, the capital of the little kingdom of Woolli. Fortunately his slight knowledge of the Mandingo language enabled him to understand a negress who was speaking of a

iate from the usual route, and, accordingly, crossed the river with

earing presents, and asking for protection. He was cordially received, and the traveller was welcomed to Mendana, the capita

urred which was the first blow to his hopes. A hut next that in which he slept took fire, and the whole town was soon in flam

n account of their value, but as signs of the good-will which they demonstrated. This friend of the Europeans wa

a letter to h

e can obtain, for the merest trifle, gold, ivory, wax, and slaves. Poultry, sheep, eggs, butter, milk, honey, and fish are extremely abundant, and for ten pounds ster

h were later confirmed by Mungo Park. The traveller was cordially received by the King of Bambouk, who provided him with a guide to Timbuctoo, and with cowries to pay his expenses during the journey. It was hoped that Houghton would reach the Niger without accident, when a note, written in pencil and half effaced, reached Dr. Laidley.

aer s

unting many obstacles, he advanced to the north, and endeavoured to cross the kingdom of Ludamar. Finally he reached Yaouri, and made the acquaintance of several merchants, on their way to sell salt at Tischet, a town situated near the marshes of the great desert, and six days' journey north

ll he possessed, and fled. He was forced to reach Yaouri on foot. Did he die of hunger, or was he assassinated by

s time Mungo Park, a young Scotch surgeon, who had just returned from a voyage to the East Indies on board the Worcester, learnt that the African Society were anxious to find an explorer willing to penetrate to the interior of the country watered by the Gam

t of Mu

e of early

undred pounds sterling. Landing at Jillifree, at the mouth of the Gambia, in the kingdom of Barra, and following the river, he reached Pisania, an English factory belonging to Dr. Laidley. He

thful and courageous. The Yolofs are a powerful and warlike nation, with very black skins. Except in colour and speech, they resemble the Mandingoes, who are gentle and sociable. Tall and well-made, their women are, c

ngdom of Woolli, the capital of which, Medina, comprises a thousand houses. He then proceeded to Kolor, a considerable town, and, after two days' march across a desert, e

uriferous. He was received by the king at Fataconda, the capital of Bondou, and had great difficulty in convincing h

er, most of them young and handsome, wearing on their heads ornaments of gold or pieces of amber. They rallied me a good deal upon different subjects, particularly upon the whiteness of my skin and the length of my nose. They insisted t

by the Senegal, is far healthier than that of districts nearer the coast. The natives call themselves Serawoullis, and are called Se

at commerce with the French in gold-dust and slaves, and still often supply the British factories

s of S

om. Fortunately for him, the nephew of Demba-Jego-Jalla, King of Kasson, who was about to return to his country, took him under his protection. They reac

31st of December. Well received by the natives, who sold him the provisions he needed at a reasonab

ms. The king, full of kindly feeling for the traveller, wished him to remain in his kingdom as long as the wars between Kasson and Kajaaga lasted. It was more than probable that the countries

He met crowds of natives on the journey who were flying to Kasson to escape the horrors of war. But even this did not de

mbara, and, finding all his arguments useless, advised him to avoid passing through the midst of the

bread made from the berries of the lotus, which tasted not unlike gingerbread.

otophagi. I have tasted lotus bread, and think that an army may very easily have been fed with it, as is said by Pliny to have

om Ali, King of Ludamar, the traveller obtained permission to travel in safety through his dominions. But, in spite of this safe-conduct, Park was almost entirely despoiled by the fanatical Moors of Djeneh. At Sampaka and Dalli, large t

e surveyed me with attention, and inquired of the Moors if I could speak Arabic. Being answered in the negative, he appeared surprised, and continued silent. The surrounding attendants, and especially ladies, were much more inquisitive. They asked a

, outrages, nor blows. They attempted to make a barber of him, but his awkwardness in cutting the hairy face of the king's son exempted him from this degrading occupatio

strangers are met there. From Benown to Walet is a distance of six days' journey. No important town is passed between the two, and the traveller depends for sustenance upon the

on this journey, which is generally made upon oxen. At Timbuctoo there are a

btained permission to accompany the king. The traveller hoped, by nearing the scene of action, to manage to escape. As it happened, the King

ter refused to accompany him. He was forced to st

rly belongs to Kaarta, but was then paying tribu

give the possessor all the knowledge of the white man. I had never before heard of so simple a mode of education, but I at once complied with the request; and my landlord's thirst for learning was so great that he cut and pulled at my

ward," he says, "I saw, with infinite pleasure, the great object of my mission-the long-sought-for, majestic Niger, glittering in the morning sun, as broad as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing slow

it ran in the contrary direction, I had made frequent inquiries during my progress, and had received from negroes of different nations such clear and decisive assurances that

orm, with flat roofs; some of them have two stories, and many of them are whitewashed. Besides these buildings, Moorish mosques are seen in every quarter, and the streets, though narrow, are broad enough for every practical purpose in a country where wheel carriages are unknown. From the best information I could obtain, I have reason to beli

earance of ill-will, he sent him a bag containing 5000 cowries, of the value of about a pound sterling, to buy provisions. The messenger sent by the king was to serve as guide as far as Sansanding. Protest an

very much resembles the American oak; the fruit-from the kernel of which, after it has been dried in the sun, the butter is prepared by boiling in water-has somewhat the appearance of a Spanish olive. The kernel is imbedded in a sweet pulp, under a thin green rind,

rts, which they exchange for gold-dust and cotton. Mungo Park was not able to remain at this place, for the importunities of the natives and the perfidious insinuat

dvanced to the eastward down the river, the more he placed himself in the power of the Moors. The rainy season had commenced, and it would soon be i

s fatigues and efforts in jeopardy. To return to Gambia was scarcely less perilous; to do so he must traverse

the Moorish and negro traders all the information I could concerning the further course

sues in many different streams, which finally become two branches, one flowing to the north-east, the other to the east; but these branches join at Kabra, which is one day's journey to the south of Timbuctoo, and is the port or shipping-place of that city. The tract of land between the two streams is called Timbala, and is inhabited by negroes. The whole distance by land from Djenneh to Timbuctoo is twelve days' journey. North-east of Masena is the kingdom of Timbuctoo, the great

ea, and Modibon, where he regained his horse; Nyara, Sansanding, Samea, and Sai, which is surrounded by a deep moat, and protected by high walls w

handful of grain of a "dooty," who an

to dig in the earth, and the Dooty, who appeared to be a man of very fretful disposition, kept muttering to himself until the pit was almost finished, when he repeatedly pronounced the word ankatod (good for nothing), jankra lemen (a regular plague), which expressions I thought applied to myself. As the pit had very much the appearance of a grave, I thought it prudent to mount my horse, and was about

21st of August, and reached Bammakoa, where a large salt-market is held. From an eminence near the town he perc

But his courage soon revived; and reaching the town of Sibidoulou, his horse and clothes, which had been stolen from him by Foulah robbers, were restored to him by the mansa, or chief. Kamalia, or Karfa Taura advised him to awa

ka, and passing first the principal branch of the Senegal river, and then the Falemé, the caravan finally reached the shores of the Gambia, and on the

an account of his discoveries, certainly the most important in this part of Africa, was awaited, that

g travellers; he had determined the position of the sources of the Senegal and Gambia, and surveyed th

h geographer Delisle had done, in 1707, when he represented the Niger as running eastward from Bornu, and flowing into the river Senegal on the west. He himself,

ve positions of Sego, Djennéh, and Timbuctoo; but it was reserved for Mungo Park to fix positively, from personal knowledge, t

he great traveller's exploration, and keenly appreciat

ered Mungo Park the conduct of an expedition t

o Mungo Park the command of a new expedition for its exploration. This time the great traveller did

ughtsman, and by thirty-five artillery-men. He was authorized to enrol as many soldie

ause of his loss. The rapacious demands of the African kings grew in proportion to the riches they supposed our traveller to possess; and

Pisania the next day. From this place, ten years earlier, he had started upon his first exploration. Taking an easterly direction, he followed his former route as far as Bambaku, upon the shores of the Niger. When he arrived at this place, the number of Europeans was al

a large shop, which he stocked with European merchandise, for sale wholesale and retail; and probably the large profits he made excited the envy of the merchants. The natives of Djenneh, the Moors, and merchants of Sansanding, joined with those of Sego in offering, in the presence of Modibinne, to give the King of Mansong a larger and more

lone in the heart of Africa. The King of Mansong had accorded him permission to build a boat, which would enabl

ality no new discovery, but it was recognized as useful to geographical science. Mungo Park had determined the astronomical position of the more important towns, and thereby furnished material for a map of Senegambia. The perfecting of this map was entrusted to Arrowsmith, who stated in an advertisement, that, finding wi

discovered. Mungo Park in his diary records events as happening upon the 31st of April. As every one knows that that month has only thirty days, it followed that during the course of his journey the traveller had made a mistake of a whole day, reckoning in

Africa induced the Governor of Senegal to fit out an expedition. The command was entrusted to the negro merchant Isaac, Mungo Park's guide, who had faithfully delivered th

native who was with Park on the Djoliba when he peri

o days reached Silla, the spot where

we were pursued by these boats, which we repulsed with difficulty, and only after killing several natives. At Gourouma we were attacked by seven boats, but succeeded in repulsing them. Constant skirmishes ensued, with he

ents for the chief and to purchase food. The negro, before accepting the presents, enquired if the white traveller

negro chief, once convinced that he should not see Mungo Park

the white men, sent an army next day to the small village of Boussa, on the river side. When the Djoliba appeared it was assa

the Djoliba and visited Timbuctoo. Many efforts were made i

rrman's expedition, which, as we have said, was interrupted by his voyage in Oceania, after Cook's expedition, was the first to appear. It was translated into French by Le Tourneur. In his preface, which is still allow

he town was only two miles across each way, including the gardens and plantations adjoining it on one side. T

ste to Alphen, a property which he possessed near Constance. The naturalist availed himself of the opportunity to make many excursions in the neighbourhood, and attempt the somewhat dangerous ascent of the Table Mountain. By these means he became

sured a certain welcome for the traveller. Sparrm

r named Van der Spooei, a widower, born in Africa, and father

accepted his offers in the same style as they were offered. His daughter, a well-made girl of some fourteen or fifteen years of age, brought in dinner, which consisted of a fine breast of lamb, stewed with carrots. The meal over, she offered me tea so pleasantly that I was quite puzzled whether to admire the dinner or my charming hostess the mo

Hout Bay and Paarl, in which he had frequent occasion to notice the e

ain Cook, the Resolution and Adventure, arrived at the Cape, Forster invited the young Swedish naturalist to accompany him; and Sparrman was thus enabled to visit New Zealand

resources he practised medicine and surgery during the winter. A cargo of corn, medicine, knives, tinder-boxes, and

man s

thong of the same or greater length, and a tongue of white leather almost three feet long. The driver holds this formidable instrument in both hands, and from his seat in front of the waggo

ecreation. They started upon the 25th of July, 1775. After passing Rent River, scaling the Hottentot Holland Kloof, and crossing the Palmite, they entered

y having built a house near the mountains. At this point the explorer was joined by young Immelman, and together they started fo

ives of Mozambique. Their hair is black and woolly, curly, but not thick. They rub the entire body with fat and soot. A Hottentot who paints himself looks less

tten

e of early

a sort of hood, in which they place their children. Both men and women wear leather rings upon their arms and legs-a custom, which gave rise to the fable

hape of beehives. The doors, which are in the centre, are so low that they can only be entered on th

only for hunting and robbery; their skill in throwing poisoned arrows,

gga, a species of horse, like a zeb

niquas, or, as Burchell's map calls them, the Antiniquas. This woody country appeared fertile, and the colonists established there are prosperous. Sparrman

ls, or villages he passed would convey no information to the reader. Rather let us gather from his narratives a few

ular shape, and are often a foot and a half long, and occasionally six inches thick in the upper part. One of these tails will weigh eight or twelve pounds, and th

horse and the ox-the gazelle, the baboon, and the hippopotamus, the habits of which were previously imperfec

taken for a common sparrow, but it is a little larger than that bird, of a somewhat lighter

t is very fond of honey, and it knows that whenever a nest is destroyed, a l

tives or settlers, when the bird, repeating its call unceasingly, slowly flies from place to place towards the spot where the bees have made their home. Arrived at the nest, whether it be in the cleft of a rock, in a hollow tree, or in some underg

osj

e of early

n the colony, had been discovered to the north of the Schneuwberg district. A little later, the traveller

an Sparrman's, actual journeys of discovery; and we owe the acquisition of no new geographical fact to Thunberg. He did but make a vast number of interesting observations on the bi

of natural history. He penetrated a little further north than the Orange River, and into Kaffraria a good deal further east than Fish River. To him we o

ere far less numerous than those whose motive was love of natural history. We have already mentioned Sp

ny, Lorraine, and the Vosges, on his way to Paris. It will readily be understood that this wandering life awoke in him a taste for travelling; and his passion

ear the Cape had been explored by botanists, and by a scientific man who had made

81, after the loss of his vessel in an explosion, with n

l with the gun and the bow, in his strength and agility, as well as in his skill in preparing the skins of animals, and in stuffing birds so

them, and to penetrate into districts neglected by Europeans, hoping in them to meet with birds unknown to science. As a result he may be said always to have taken nature by surprise, coming into contact with natives whose manners had not yet been modified by intercourse with whites; so that the information he gives us brings savage life, as it really is, more vividly before us than anything told us by his predece

er, 1781, for a first journey eastwards, and in Kaffraria. His equipment this time consisted of thirty

ere he bought some oxen, a cart, and a cock-the last serving as an alarm-clock throughout the journey. Another animal was also of great use to him. This was a monkey he had tamed, an

Rees had give

e most subtle Redskin. He it was who warned the dogs of the approach of danger. If a snake approached, or a troop of monkeys were

m the sea. He pitched his camp on the banks of the Columbia (Duywen Hock) river and made many very successful hunting exc

ath the feet of the travellers; the air was heavy with their perfume; their varied colours lent such enchantment to the scene that some of the servants would have liked to halt. Le Vaillant however hast

"turacos," and other rare birds, pitched his hunting camp; but his plans were terribly upset by the continu

excursion after another was now made in various directions, until Kaffraria was entered. It was difficult to open relations with its people, who sedulously avoided the whites, having suffered the loss of many men and much cattle at their hands. Moreover the Tamboukis had take

fir w

e of early

fraria, and Le Vaillant retraced his steps. He then visited the Schneuwberg mountains, the Ka

must not be confounded with the Hottentots properly so called, but are probably the offspring of their intermarriage with the Kaffirs. Wit

are less noticeable in the Gonaquas, neither have they the broad flat faces and thick lips of their neighbours the negroes of Mozambique. Their faces, on the contrary, are round, their noses fairly prominent, and their teeth th

ing only of amusement and dress. Ostrich feathers were so much in vogue that they had to be imported from Europe and Asia. All those brought by our traveller were quickly bought up. The birds which he h

the many other friends he had made, to collect the materials for a fresh trip. On the 15th June, 1783, he started at the head of a caravan numbering nineteen persons. He

llous birds, that he introduced the first giraffe to Europe, and that he traversed the whole of the vast space between the tropic of Capricorn on

who soon died out-the more readily that they occupied a barren country, subject to constant attacks from the Bosjemans. Althoug

whom Le Vaillant gives many particu

ance, and slender limbs. The long mantle of light material which hangs from the shoulder to the ground adds to their height. They look like drawn out men. Lighter in colou

h had not been met with by any other northern traveller; but they appear identical with the Bechuanas, although the

strong and active. They have an imposing air of boldness." Le Vaillant considers them the best endowed mentally, and the strongest physically, of all the savage races he had met wi

ural saddle, and oscillates strangely with every movement of the body. Le Vaillant describes a woman whom he saw

many of which are now extinct, or incorporated in some more powerful tribe. Although by no means the

f great interest; but unfortunately, so far as we know, his journal has not been published. His name is often quoted by geographers, and they appear to know what countries he visited; but in France, at least, no lengthened notice of this geo

ed a mass of interesting particulars of the province of Mato Grosso, which are given in the Rivesta trimensal do Brazil. We cannot tell what circumstances led him, after this successful expedition, to the Portuguese possessions in Africa; nor is

upon the eastern shore of the lake called Mofo. It would have been interesting to compare these localities with those that we know of in the same parallels to-day; but the lack of

d then proceeded upon his journey. Unfortunately, when a day or two's mar

But unfortunately the caravan entrusted with these precious memorials was attacked, and the remains of the unfortunate L

uce was brought up for the bar; but the sedentary nature of his occupation had little charm for him, and he embraced an opportunity of entering commercial life. His wife died a few years after their marriage, and B

of Jame

e of early

ne, 1768, left England for the shores of the Mediterranean. Bruce hurriedly visited some of the islands of the Archipelago, Syria, and Egypt. Leaving Djedda he proceeded to Mecca, Lobheia, and arrived at Massowah upon the 19th September, 1769. He had taken care to obtain a firman from the Sultan, and also letters from the Bey of Cairo, and the Sheriff of Mecca. This was fortunate, for the Nawab, or governor

ally, and passes over the mountains which s

ton cloth which circulates as current money in Abyssinia was established the

the first barley, then the wheat, and last of all the 'teff.' In some of these they sow immediately upon the same ground without any manure, barley, which they reap in February, and then often sow 'teff,' but more frequently a kind of vetc

of Abyssinia. "In one square," says Bruce, "which I apprehend to have been the centre of the town, there are forty obelisks, none of which have any hieroglyphics on them. The two first have fallen down, b

parapet about five feet high. At intervals solid pedestals rise from this wall, bearing every token of having served to support colossal statues of Sirius, the barking Anubis, or the Dog star. One hundred and thirt

d still in their places, are the only remains of a magnificent temple. In an angle of this platform where the temple stood, is the present small church of Axum. This chur

ding part by little wooden skewers serving as pins. Whether they put anything between the skin and the wounded flesh I do not know, but they soon covered the wound with m

l, a town considerably larger than Axum, but constantly a prey to putrid fevers. Near it f

baggage, but also torn with civil war; so that foreigners were anything but safe. This made him most anxious to reach Gondar, but when he arrived typhoid fever was raging fiercely. His knowledge of medicine was very useful to him, and procured him a situation under the governor, which was most advantageous to him, as it rende

he church of St. Michael, at Geesh, where the river is only four paces wide, and some four inches deep, Bruce became convinced that its sources mus

Geesh is at the top of the rock, where you see those very green trees. If you go to the fountains, pull off your shoes as you did the other day, for these people are all Pagans, and they believe in nothing that you believe, but only in the Nile, to which they pray every day as if it were God, as you perhaps invoke it yourself.' I took off my shoes, and rushed down the hill towards the little green island, which was about two hundred yards distant. The whole of the side of the hill was carpeted with flowers, the large roots of which protruded above the surface of t

curious observations, but we must no

e S.W.?W. of the spot where the Nile, after flowing through the lake with an ever perceptible current, bends towards Dara in the Allata territory. In the dry season, from October to March, the lake decreases greatly; but when the rains have swollen the rivers, which unite at this place like the spokes of a wheel at the nave, the lake rises, and overflows a portion of the plain. If the Abyssinians, great liars at all times, are to be believ

byssinia with Bruce, let

olney, and Savary had been published in succession, and the Egyptian Society was at work upon the publication of its large and magn

k relating to Darfur is entirely new, no Europeans having previously explored it. Browne attained a high place among travellers by his discovery that the Bahr-el-

and discovered, as Horneman did later, the oasis of Jupiter Ammon. He had little more opportunity t

ich they belonged were built by the same race of men. The figures of Isis and Anubis are easily recognizable on the

ruins; so that I should think that the materials for these buildings cannot have been obtained on the spot. The people of Siwah have pre

aw, Achmin, Gergeh, Dendera, Kazr, Thebes, Asso?an, Kosseir, Memphis, Suez, and Mount Sinai; then wishing to enter Abyssinia, but convinced that he could not do so by way of Massowah, he left A

nter at Cobbeh, awaiting his restoration to health, which only took place in the summer of 1794. This time of forced inaction was not, however, wasted by the traveller; he acquainted himself with the manners and dialects of Darfur. Upon the return of summer,

amented in front with a small copper plate and a black ostrich feather. Each bore a spear in his right hand, and a shield of hippopotamus-hide on the left arm. Their only clothing was a cotton shirt, of the manufacture of the country. Behind the throne were fourteen or fifteen eunuchs, clothed in rich stuffs of various kinds and all manner of colours. The space in front was

onarch seated

r into the hands of the meleks, but he only obtained res

it would be no easy task to leave it, and that in any case he

conded me, though not with the zeal that I might have wished. To my demand for permission to travel no answer was returned, and the iniquitous despot, who had received from me no less than the value of about 750 pi

the spring of 1796, when he joined the ca

tal of Darfur. It is more than two miles in length, but is extremely narrow, each house s

e with Egypt. Their number may be estimated at six thousand, the larger proportion being slaves. The entire population of Darfur cannot exc

y Arabs, none of whom are permanent residents. They are of various tribes; the greater number lead a wandering life on the frontiers, where they pasture their cam

horsemen in the field. The Zeghawas speak a different dialect from the people of Für. We must also include the peop

eely in an intoxicating liquor called Bouzza or Merissé. Thieving, lying,

g the son, and the son the parent, and atrocious frau

dofan, he took in his retinue five hundred women, leaving as many in his palace. This may at first sight seem ridiculous, but it must be remembered that the

o the mode of travelling in Africa, with particulars of the animals, fish, metals, and plants of

TER

ITS INH

ival at Nankin-Negotiations-Reception of the Embassy by the Emperor-Fêtes and ceremonies at Zhe Hol-Return to Pekin and E

ted into any other European language, did not win for its author the recognition he deserved. A second edition, illustrated with engravings which were meritorious rather from their fidelity to nature than their artistic mer

stay there had been known only through the extravagant tales of Marco Polo. Although China is the country of stagnation, and customs and fashion always remain much the same in it,

uction of this immense work, for which a volume would be required, and it is the less necessary as at this day we have fuller and more complete details of the country than are to be found even in the learned father's book. To the Jesu

predecessor, Du Halde, and at the same time rectified and added to it. After an account of the fifteen provinces of China and Tartary, with the tributary States, such as Corea, Tonking, Cochin Chi

being desirous of entering into commercial relations with China,

Europe and Russia, had been governor of the English

se peoples, a profound knowledge of human nature. His narrative of his voyages is rich in

el are always more intere

ls, where the assertion I have been there, I have done such or s

of three vessels, the Lion, the Hindustan, and the Jac

orieu. 23, r.

ers were seen, at Batavia, and Bantam, in Java, and at Poulo Condere, the vessels cast anchor off Tu

ish to their country, they sent an ambassador of high rank on board with presents for Macartney, who was shortly afterwards invited to a banquet at the governor's, foll

tered the Strait of Formosa, where it encountered stormy weather, and took refuge in Chusan Harbour. During this stay the map of this archipelago was rectified and a

and dress of the Chinese, the small feet of the women, and many other particulars to which we need no

It is an art peculiar to the Chinese, and the gardener's skill consists in knowing how to produce it. Independently of the satisfaction of tr

with the branch immediately above them, are carefully separated from the tree and placed in fresh mould, where the shoots soon develope into real roots, whilst the branch forms the stem of a plant which is in a manner metamorphosed. This operation neither destroys nor alters the productive faculties of the branch which is separated from the parent tree. When it bears fruit or flowers it does so as plentifully as when it was upon the original stem. The extremities of the branches intended to be dwarfed

ropean vessel. The river Hoang-Ho flows into it, and it is from the immense quantity of y

gulf of Pekin, and halted outside the bar of Pei-Ho. There being only three

hortly after, bringing numerous presents; whilst the gifts intended for the emperor we

eroy of the province and the principal mandarin. Both were men of venerable and

f this truth in the effect produced upon the Chinese character by the fear of the iron power that ruled them. Apart from

houses and villages at intervals upon the banks of the river or inland, alternating with cemeteries and pyramids of bags of salt, producing a charming and ever vary

magic-

e of early

e celebrated there upon the 13th of September. The ambassador and his suite were therefore to go up by water as far as Tong Schou, about a dozen miles from Pekin, and thence proceed by land to Zhe Hol, where the emperor awaited them. The presents might be sent on afterwards. Although the first intimation was pleasant, the latter was singularly disagreeable to Macartney, fo

ot less than seven hundred thousand inhabitants. A vast crowd assembled on the banks of

t is unusual. Here the English saw the employment of those carriages with sails which had long been

e another pushes behind and keeps it steady. When the wind is favourable, the sail, which is a mat attache

kes, also of granite, provided with a sluice, by means of which water is conveyed to the fields below. The country, althou

after leaving Tien Tsing was the blue outline of mountains perceived on the horizon. Pekin was now in sight; and o

more amazed at the first sight of a negro servant. His skin, his jet black colour, his woolly hair, and all the distinguishing marks of his race, were absolutely novel in this part of China. The people could not remember seeing anything at all like him befor

mong other facts, that silver is an article of commerce with the Chinese, for they have no coined money, but use ingots bearing only a sign, indica

omas visited China; while the Missionary Tremore contends, that th

d three of his suite accompanied the convoy in palanquins. An enormous crowd followed them. The English ambassador was greeted at the gates of Pekin by volleys of artillery. Once beyond the fortifications, he

g that was rare in other countries and unknown in China. It was gravely asserted that among the animals, there was an elephant not larger than a monkey, but as fierce as a lion, and a coc

ow colour. Through the gate were seen artificial hills, lakes and

explored the town in various directions, and on the whole were not favourably impressed. They concluded that a Chinaman visiting London, with its bridges an

discussed with Macartney the best way to arrange and display them. They were finally placed in a large

t Macartney should prostrate himself before the emperor; which humiliating proposition they had prepared for by

eror of

e of early

ring. Here, too, is to be found the "Temple of the Earth," to which the sovereign resorts at the summer solst

ial government in China, and has neit

gle house accommodates three generations. This density of the population is the result of the early ages at which marriages are contracted. These hasty uni

Macartney, travelling in a post-chaise, probably the

s clay and black earth. Shortly afterwards, vast plains, planted with tobacco, were crossed. Macartney imagines to

on decreased. At the same time the Tartar element became larger and larger, and the

he journey, the far-fam

ers on sustaining arches, and with its breadth often doubled and trebled to increase its strength, whilst at intervals of about a hundred paces rise towers or strong bastions. It is difficult to understand how the materials for this wall were brou

long, but it is not quite finished. The fifteen hundred miles was the extent of the frontier which separates coloniz

d; but the principal wall appears throughout to have been built with such care and skill as never to have needed repairs. It has now been preserved

t wall o

wooded. The number of sufferers from go?tre in the Tartar valleys is very considerable, and, according to the estimate given by Dr. Gillan, physician to th

nt freshness," and the park surrounding it is named the "Garden of innumerable trees." The embassy was received with military honours, amid an imme

consented to content himself with the respectful salutation with which English nobles are accustomed to

rrativ

grove, and preceded by a number of men who proclaimed his virtues and power in loud voices. He was seated in a chair carried by sixteen men; his guards, the officers of his household, standard and umbrella bearers, and musicians ac

never addressed him but in a kneeling position. When the princes of royal blood, the tributary princes, and state officers, were in their places, the president of the customs conducted Macartney within a f

he bowed the knee, and, with a short prefatory compliment, presented the box to his Imperial Majesty. The Chinese monarch received it graciously, and said, as he placed it on one side, "that he experienced much satisfaction at the token of esteem and friendship of

The emperor also partook of these, and continued to overwhelm the ambassadors with expressions of regard and esteem, which had a great effect in raising the English in the estimation of the Chinese public. Macartney and his suite were later invited to visit the ga

Prime

e of early

formed only a small portion of the vast enclosure. The rest is sacred to the use of the women of t

and its luxuriance is not diminished by cattle or interfered with by mowing. Arriving upon the shores of an irregular lake, of vast extent, the whole party e

er, Tchien Lung participating in them with great zest. Dancers on the tight-rope, tumblers, conjurors (of unrivalled skill), and wrestlers, performed in succession. The natives of various portions of the empire

rrativ

d; but in falling they opened by degrees and sprung one out of the other. Each then assumed a regular form, and suddenly a beautifully coloured light appeared. The Chinese seemed to understand the art of shaping the fireworks at their fancy. On either side of the la

the forests of Tartary; but in the present case advancing age rendered that diversion unwise, and

, the fact that the Chinese emperor defrayed the expenses of the embassy naturally induced him to curtail his stay. In a short time he received from Tchien Lung the reply to the l

bird "Leutzé," fishing for its master. It is a species of cormorant, and is so well trained that it is

to plunge the instant they receive a sign from their masters. It is c

ous bird

, until the birds are accustomed to the sight of them. A man then enters the water, places one of the jars upon his head, and advancing gently, seizes the feet o

and thence returned to England. We n

a which may be called the interior. The

hing exaggerated in the latter; it is written in a quiet, precise manner, and is one of the most instructive of books. The members of the E

pon reaching Syria he realized that he could not possibly acquire the knowledge of the country he desired unless he first made himself acquain

ik, and accustomed himself to the use of a lance, and to live on horseback, thus qualifying himself to accompany the tribes in th

is black, light, greasy earth,' which is brought up and deposited by the Nile. When he wishes to describe the warm winds of the desert, with their dry heat, he compares them 'to the impression which one receives upon opening a fierce oven to take out the bread

is." Although no geographical discoveries can be imputed to him, we must none the less recognize in him one of the first travellers who had a true conception of the importance of their task. His aim was always to give a true impr

on public taste, by his popularity in society and position as a man of science, and drawing special attention to Greece and the

?ologist through the Greece of Homer and Herodotus. Such a journey was the very thing to complete the education of the young ambassado

bé Barthélemy, the Greek scholar, Ansse de Villoison, the poet Delille, the sculptor Fauvel, and the pai

he latter, after a journey to London, where M. de Choiseul's business detained him long enough for him to learn English, went to I

y. Well versed in the Iliad, he sought for, and believed he id

illusory, for the reason that Troy, and, as a matter of course, the Ten Years Siege, existed only in the imagination of the Greek poet; whilst others, and principally the En

late a statistical paper on Paris, he lost his patron and the payment for his labours in the first outburst of the Revolution. Wishing to employ his talent for natural history away fr

, and were delayed for four months at Versail

Semonville. But this ambassador had been recalled, and his successor, M. de Sainte Croix had heard nothing of their un

therefore decided to visit the shores of Asia Mi

h much money, and their own resources being limited, they were unabl

received instructions to send them to Persia, where they were to endeavour to awaken th

ing on in Khorassan at the time that Olivier and Bruguère arrived. An opportunity occurred for them to join the shah in a country as yet unvisited by any European; but unfortu

an sailors whom he had taken prisoners on the Caspian Sea, to be put to death, and their li

sinated, and his nephew, Fehtah-Ali Shah

ng prince. Finally, the travellers, realizing the impossibility of obtaining anything definite under such circumstances, returned to Europe, and left the question

hy, Cuvier, in his eulogy of Olivier, assures us that, so far as natural history was concerned, much had been a

ative of the voyage published, in three quart

had not eliminated certain portions; but allusions were found throughout the whole volume, wh

ortune; he quietly omitted all that he was told to leave out, and r

n power in the days of Peter the Great. Until the reign of that monarch she had been in every particular-manners, customs, and inhabitants-Asiatic. With Pe

sent expeditions round the coast to collect particulars as to the climate, productions, and races of the different provinces

dea of her subjects. Interest and curiosity were awakened, and the eyes of Western Europe were fixed upon Russia. It became recognized that a great nation was arising, and many doubts were entertained as to the result upon European

iticians, and those interested in the welfare of their country, as well as for the scientific

into French between 1788-1793. It was a narrative of a journey across several pr

he understood the art of enlisting him in her service by her favours. Pallas, in acknowledgment of them, published his account of fossil remains in Siberia. England an

a large number of pupils, made up the party, which wa

e great lake which is now drying up; the Ural Mountains, with their numberless iron-mines; Tobolsk, the capital of Siberia; the province of Koliwan, upon the northern slopes of the Atlas; Krasnojarsk, upon the Jenissei; and the imme

nity; geography, history, politics, commerce, religion, science, art, all occupied his attention; and it is impossible to read his narrative wit

ea of contenting himself with the laurels he had gained. Work was his recreati

otany, and by his works upon that subject he obtai

al and topographical account of the province of Taurius-a work which, origin

e desired to settle there. The empress bestowed some of the cro

s. He then explored the Crimea. He had seen parts of the country twenty years before, and he now found great changes. Although he complains of the devastation of the forests, he commends the increa

f treachery on the part of the Tartars. His wife died in the Crimea; and finally, disgusted with the count

re able to gather much trustworthy information upon countries then but little known, and the c

PTE

WO AM

ne river-Mackenzie, and the river named after him-Fraser river-South America-Survey of the Amazon by Condamine-Journey of Humboldt and Bonpland-Teneriffe-The Guachero cavern-The "Lla?os"-The Electric eels-The Amazon, Negro, and Orinoco rivers-The earth-eaters-Results of the journey-Humbol

of Fernando Cortes and of the voyages and explorations of Drake, Cook, La Perouse, and Marchand. It will be well now to go back fo

peninsula of California, and sailed over the greater part o

e latter by land-devoted themselves to seeking the channel which was erroneously supposed

s, and the bad state of his vessel, compelled him to turn back. He made no actual discovery, but he ascertained that, from Port Nativid

man, Drake, who, after having sailed along the western coast as far as the Straits of Magellan, and devastated the Spanish possessions, reached the for

claimed to have found the long-sought Strait of Anian, when he had

iard or a Portuguese, which has been the text of so many learned discussions and ingenious suppositions. To him we owe the discovery of the Archipelago of St. Lazarus above Vancouver's Island; but al

Mon

e of early

ose parts only being believed which accorded with the well authenticated accounts of others. Buache, Delisle, and above a

e that their hunters and Cossacks would soon reach America, if, as was then believed, the two continents were con

lan of an expedition, with instructions to its members, which he had long had in v

ly the necessary men, stores, &c., captains, sailors, eq

ion, which consisted of two vessels built at Kamtchatka. They were not ready to put to sea until July 20th, 1720. Steering north-east along the coast of Asia

through the strait to which posterity has given his name. The fabulous strait of Anian gave place to

to the coast of America; but the two vessels were separated in a gale of wind on the 28th August, and were unable to find each other again throughout the trip. On the 18th

ff the peninsula of Alaska; and after a struggle, lasting until the 24th September, with contrary wi

f his vessel, and could not prevent her from running aground on the little island bearing his

f winter in this desolate spot, succeeded in making a large sloop

56' N. lat., where he lost two boats with their crews, without being able to find out what had become of

l officers eagerly rushed in, directing their efforts care

roused the jealousy and anxiety of the Spanish, who feared lest their rivals should establish t

. Two expeditions started simultaneously, the one by land, under Don Gaspar de Partola, the other by sea, consisting of two p

d voyages were those of Don Juan de Ayala and of La Bodega, which took place in 1775, and resulted in th

f Vancouver. This officer, who had accompanied Cook on his second and third voyage, was naturally appointed to the command of the

st importance to the fur trade. He was then to survey the whole of the north-west coast, from 30° N. lat. to Cook's River in

routes taken by Dampier and Marion, and through latitudes which had not yet been traversed. On the 27th September was sighted part of the coast of New Holland, ending in abrupt and precipitous cliffs, to which the name of Cape Chatham was given. As many of his crew were down with dysentery, Vancouver decided to anchor in th

se along the south-west coast of Holland

by Cook. A gale soon separated the Discovery from the Chatham, which was found again in Matavai Bay, Tahiti. During the voyage there from Dusky Bay, Vancouver discovered some rocky islands, which he called the Snar

place in this archipelago. English and American vessels now sometimes visited it to take whales, or trade in furs, and their captains had given the natives a taste for brandy and

Grey, who was supposed to have penetrated, in the Washington, into De Fuca Strait, and discovered a vast sea. Grey at once disavowed the discoveries with which he was so generously credit

nd Broughton Archipelago. Before reaching the northern extremity of this long arm of the sea, he met two small Spanish vessels under the comm

. It will be understood that it is impossible to follow the details of the minute survey of the vast stretch of coas

survey of the north-west coast of America will dispel all doubts, and do away with all erroneous opinions as to a north-west passage; surely no one

small Cocoa-Nut Island-which, as we have already observed, little deserves its name-cast anchor off Valpar

ned the health of the explorer that he died in May, 1798, lea

ill be seen from this how apt a pupil of Cook the great navigator was; and we do not know whether most to admire in Vancouve

now rapidly forcing their way westwards. Trappers, and coureurs des bois, as the French hunters were called, had discovered vast tracts of land suitable for cultivation, and many English squatters had already taken root, not, however, without n

n the middle of the following century, 1750, the successors of William Penn also made a profit ten times as great as the original price of their property. Yet emigration was even then not suffi

ccupied, the English colonists continued to push their way inland,

into the western wilds, and gained valuable information from the Indians whom they pressed into their service, and taught to get drunk. By this means the existence of a river flowing northwards, past some copper-mi

, a few well-seasoned men are required, who can endure the fatigue of an arduous march over snow, and

its of the game it contained, provisions soon failed. Two hundred miles from Fort Prince of Wal

d to privations, so he was not discouraged. If he had failed the fi

ed 500 miles when the severity of the weather compelled him to wait for a less severe temperature. He had had a terrible experience. At one time to have, indeed, more game than can be eaten; but more often to have no food whatever, and be c

ranged to spend the winter with an Indian tribe which had received him well, when a

lat. he came to a river. Here he built a canoe, and went in it down the stream, which flowed into an innumerable series of large and small lakes. Finally, on the 13th July, 1771, he reached t

r very soon

their tents, the Indians fell upon them suddenly, and I w

f the Indians; and they put to death with indescribable tort

earn, "we sat down on the grass, and

er of seals were disporting themselves in the water. A quantity of whale blubber was found in the tents of the Esquimaux. Everything in fact combined to prove that

he English posts, after an absence o

Bay, La Perouse visited this post, and there found the journal of Samuel Hearn's expedition. The French navigator returned it, on condition that he would

nating from Lake Superior, receive all the waters flowing from the Rocky Mountains, and divert them to the Arctic Ocean. It

eeded another, posts were established, and the country was opened to all comers. Soon after

lls, accompanied by a few Canadians, and several Indians who had been with Samuel Hearn, he reached 67° 45' N. lat., where he heard that the sea was n

Ocean, as he became assured when he saw the water rising, although the wind was not violent. The tide was coming in! The traveller then gained an island at a little distance from the shore, from which

che-Tesse River, which flows in a south-westerly direction. In the midst of dangers and privations more easily imagined than described, Mackenzie descended this river to its mouth, below Prince of Wales Islands. There, he wro

t view of the No

e have already told of his discoveries in America, explaining how when the work was done he had allowed Bougner to return to Europe, and left J

rwent led to the loss of his ears and legs. The victim of his enthusiasm for science, on his return home he met with nothing but ridicule and sarcasm from a public who could not understand a martyr who aimed at winning anything but Heaven. In him was recognized, not the indefatigable explorer who had braved so many dangers, but the infirm and deaf M. de Condamine, who always held his ear-trumpet in his hand. Conten

t of Co

e of early

hoped, therefore, to render his journey useful by making a map of the course of the river, and putting d

Peru to seek for Lake Parima and the El Dorado. He was murdered by a rebel soldier, who committed all ma

Texeira with forty-seven canoes, and a large number of Spaniards and Indians, followed the Amazon as far as the junction of its tribu

y, came out in Vol. xii. of the "Lettres édifiantes," a valuable publication, containing a multitude of interesting historical and geographical facts. In this map it was shown that the Napo is not the true source of the Amazon, and

eral rivers on the hanging bridges, which look like huge hammocks slung from one side to the other, reached Loxa, four degrees from the line, and 400 f

ry has declined greatly from its former prosperity. Loyola, Valladolid, Jaen, and the greater number of the Peruvian towns at a distance from the sea, and the main road between Carthagena and Lima,

by a number of falls and rapids, and in many places narrows till it is but twenty fathoms wide. The most celebrated of these narrows is the pongo, or gate, of Manseriche, in the heart of the Cordillera, where

the woodwork of my boat, penetrating further and further as the latter sunk with the water, so that if I had not been awake and on guard at the time, I should have found myself hanging from a tree, on my ra

Narrows of

e of early

ved on the 10th July, lived the Xibaro Indians, who had been for a century in re

years, Condamine was struck dumb by this novel spectacle of water and trees only, with nothing else besides. Leaving Borja on the 14th July, the traveller soon passed the mouth of the Morona, which comes down from the

who had come down the Pastaca, had been waiting for him for six weeks. At this time Laguna was a large community, of

e river, the time occupied in passing from one bend to another, the variations in the breadth of its bed and in that of the mouths of its tributaries, the angle formed by the latter at the confluence, the position and size of the islands, and above all the rate of the current and that of the canoe. Now on land and now in the canoe, em

the Fathers. Their language is difficult to learn, and their mode of pronouncing it extraordinary. Some of their words are nine or ten syllables long, and yet t

of the most important of the tributaries of the Mara?on, and which

e come down some river rising in Granada, and to have fled from the Spanish yoke. The word Omagua means flat-head in Peruvian, and these people have the singular custom of squeezing the foreheads of new-born babies between two flat pieces of wood, to m

a Ind

, and syringes, which, according to Condamine, require no piston. They are of the shape of hollow pears, and are pierced at the end with a little hole, into which a pipe is fitted. This c

uly or the 1st August, the emersion of the first satellite of Jupiter, so that he was able to determine exactly the lati

ere were neither all of the same race nor all converts to Christianity. They still wore bone ornaments in the nostr

Indian women possessed of pet birds, locks, iron keys, needles, looking-glasses, and other European utensils, procured at Para in exchange for cocoa. The native canoes are muc

he Putumayo and Yupura. On the shores of the last-named river lives a cannibal race. Here Texeira set up a barrier, on the 26th June, 1639, which w

nformation on the important geographical fact of the communication between the two great rivers, is to be found in the works of Condamine, and his sagacious comments on the journeys of the missionaries who prece

of Pauxis-beyond which the Mara?on takes the name of the Amazon, and where the tide begins to be felt, although the sea is more than 200 miles

uite a novel spectacle, since for two months Condamine had not see

he Paramaribo. The port of Curupa was then reached, and lastly Para, a large town, with regular streets and houses of rough or hewn stone. To comp

ntific manner, and the connexion between it and the Orinoco ascertained. Moreover Condamine had collected a vast number of interesti

he connexion between geography and the other physical sciences. We allude to Alexander von Humb

f Alex. de

e of early

ld with Captain Cook. This friendship, and the enthusiastic accounts given of his adventures by Forster, probably did much to rouse in Humboldt a longing to travel. He took the lead in the study of geology, botany, chemistry, and animal magnetism; and to perfect himself in the various s

, and he went to Marseilles with the intention of joining the French army in Egypt. For two whole months he waited for the sailing of the frigate which was t

ntroductions, and he was, moreover, already becoming known. In spite, therefore, of the extreme reluctance of the governme

e Canaries thirteen days later. Of course, as naturalists they wer

t, where we arrived at eight o'clock, in spite of the violent wind, the great heat of the ground, which burnt our boots, and the intense cold of the atmosphere. I will tell you nothing about the magnificent view, which included the volcanic islands of Lancerote, Canaria, and Gomera, at our feet; the desert, twenty leagues square, strewn with pumice-stone and lava, and without insects or birds, separating us from thickets of laurel-trees and heaths; or of the vineyards studded with

reat earthquake of 1797. They then determined the position of Cumana, which was placed a degree and a half too far north on all the maps-an error due to the fac

had never been visited by any naturalist. We discovered a great number of new plants, chiefly varieties of palms; and we are about to start for the Orinoco, and propose pushing on from it perhaps to San Carlos on the Rio Negro, beyond the equ

med as it is with the most luxuriant vegetation, is truly magnificent. From it issues a considerable river, and its dim recesses echo to the gloomy notes of birds. It is the Acheron of the C

the nests in it with long poles. At this time many thousands of birds die a violent death, and the old inhabit

gs. At the time called at Caripe the oil harvest, the Indians build themselves huts of palm leaves outside the cavern, and then light fires of brushwood, over which they hang clay pots filled with the fat

sea-level, and inhabited by naked Indians. We saw some black monkeys with red beards. We had the satisfaction of being t

ed by

nd the Catuaro missions, and on the 21st November they arrived-having come by sea-at Caracas, a tow

f the southern hemisphere, for he had noticed that several, notably the Altar, the

them to Europe, and most thoroughly examined some rocks, with a view

rigua by the Indians, and exceeding in size that of Neufchatel in Switzerland. Nothing could give any idea of the richness and variety of the vegetation. But the interest of the lake consists not only in its picturesque and ro

ard of an extraordinary tree, the palo de la vaca, or cow-tree, which yields

t the entrance to the llanos, or perfectly flat plains stre

the first sight of the llanos is not

centre of this vast plain. Humboldt first tested the power of the gymnotus, or electric eel, large numbers of which are met with in all the tributaries of the Orinoco

ently constituted presented a very striking spectacle. The Indians, armed with harpoons and long canes, surrounded the pond on every side, and even climbed into the trees, the branches of which stretched horizontally over the water. Their wild cries, as they brandished their long sticks, prevented the horses from running away and getting back to th

ss Indians drove them back into the water. A very few, who succeeded in eluding the vigilance of the guards, regained the bank, stumblin

m a Leyden jar than I did from a gymnotus on which I

Uriticu, with its numerous and ferocious crocodiles, and the Apure, one of the tributaries of the Orinoco, the banks of wh

wild animals, made their way to quench their thirst. When the shades of night shut in the forest, so silent by day, it resounds

ften biting out large pieces of flesh. It is only four or five inches long, but more formidable than the largest crocodile, and the waters it frequents ar

e Temi, which is connected by a short portage wit

g could be more quaint or imposing than floating amongst the gigantic growths, beneath their green foliage. Sometimes, three or four hundred leagues inland,

tion on the ban

es from the Tenir to the Cano-Pimichino

Rio-Negro, which is in its tu

uiaro, an important branch of the Orinoco, which connects it with the Rio-Negro. The shor

r further progress was stopped by the hostility of the Guaharibos and the Guaica Indians, who were skilful ma

oco and the Mara?on, which takes place on the borders of the Sp

hundred leagues in twenty-five days, after which they halted for three weeks at Angostura, to t

ns, and interruptions of every kind with which he has to contend in these unhealthy districts, with impunity. We were constantly surrounded by voracious tigers and crocodiles, stung by venomous mosquitoes and ants, with no food for three months but water, bananas, fish, and tapioca, now crossing the territory of the ear

completed the examination of the whole of the district north of the Amazon, between Popayan and the mount

co and the Rio Negro a race with extremely fair complexions, differing entirely

he Orinoco cuts them off from the turtles which form their ordinary food. Some monks say they mix earth with the fat of crocodiles' tails, b

red by the Catarapeni and Maquiritare Indians, and a specimen of which he sent to the Institute with the "dapiche," a variety of Indian rubber

ica, and by a short stay in Cuba, where he and his companions made several experiments with a view to fac

xpedition, at once left Cuba, and crossed South America, arriving on the coast of Peru in time, as he thought, to receive the French navigator. Although Humboldt had throughout his long journey worked with

to. To avoid the great heat the travellers spent some time at the pretty village of Turbaco, situated on the heights overlooking the coast, where they made the necessary preparatio

o the east of Turbaco. According to a legend, the country was at one time one vast collection of burnin

, the mouths of which were full of water. As the travellers approached a hollow sound was heard, succeeded in a few m

these small volcanoes was a far purer azote than

st of Santa-Fé, beyond which it leaves the plain by a narrow channel and flows into the Magdalena basin. As a natural consequence, were this passage blocked, the whole plain of Bogota would be inundated and the ancient lake restored. There exists amongst the Indians a legend similar to that con

he Falls, is 175 feet wide, but on entering the defile which appears to have been made by an earthquake, it is not more than forty feet in breadth. The abyss into which it flings itself, is no

f the Magdalena: the one with the climate and productions of Europe, the corn, the oaks and othe

At the bottom of one of the contracted ravines, known as "ca?ons," peculiar to the Andes, a little stream, the Rio Suma Paz, has forced for itself a narrow chan

is an opening through which the traveller may gaze down into the infinite depth of the abyss, at the bottom of which rolls the torrent, its terrible roar mingled with the incessant screaming of thousands of birds. Sixty feet above this bridge is a second, fifty feet

and Bonpland only halted there for an absolutely necessary rest, quickly pressing on for the Mag

rsing the forests, in which not a human creature is seen and no food can be obtained. The highest point is 1200 feet above the sea-level, and the path leading up to i

ght is passed in temporary huts made of the leaves of the heliconia, brought on purpose. On the western slopes of the Andes marshes have to be crossed, into which one sinks up to the knees; and the weather havi

ng the fine Cauca valley, and skirting along the mountai

ic mountains of Julusuito and the craters of the Puracé volcano, which disch

asto Paramos, and that in the rainy season, which had now set in. A 'paramo' in the Andes is

l precipices forming the ascent to the summit of the Cordillera, thus avoiding the heat of the Patia valley,

no food but batatas, and when they run short they are obliged to live upon a little tree called "achupalla," for which they have to contend with the bear of the Andes. After being wet through night and day for two months, and being all

7, the temperature has considerably decreased, and Bouguer, who registered it at an average of from 15° to 16° would be surprised to find it varying from 4° to 10° Reaum

of the Pinchincha crater, never

discouraged, I changed my plan. From the outer rim of the crater, flung as it were upon the abyss, rise three peaks, three rocks, which are not covered with snow, because the steam from the volcano prevents the water from freezing. I climbed upon one of these rocks and on the top of it found a stone attached on one side only to the rock and undermined beneath, so as to protrude like a balcony over the precipice. This stone was but about twelve feet long by six broad, and is terribly shaken by the frequent earthquakes, of which we counte

ondamine found this volcano extinct and covered with snow, but we had to take the bad news

go no further, as the cold was so intense that the blood started from the lips, e

borazo and Tungurunga. The peak of the latter fell in during the earthquake of 1797, and Hum

oing down the Andes, Humboldt and his companions had an opportunity of admiring the remains of the Yega road, leading from Cusco to Assuay, and known as the Inca's road. It was built entirely of hewn stones, and

e Rio Napo, and with the aid of the astronomical observations he was able to make, supplemented Condamine's

he started for Guayaquil, whence he wen

f his Essay on Spanish America, would, after what we have said of his previous proceedings, be enough to prove, if pr

ico, the character, customs, and language of its people, and taking observation

ad early studied geology. He then examined the Jerullo volcano, which, although situated in the centre of an immense plain thirty-six leagues from t

ent of the immense collections they had accumulated, to classify and compare the

mine the eastern slopes of the Cordilleras, and to t

panish America." In spite of the great quantity of snow which had recently fallen, Humboldt accomplished the ascent of the Cofre, 1300 feet higher than the peak of Teneriffe, obtaining from its summit, an extensive and varied view, embracing the Pu

ed rock of pyramidal form which rises like a

ation, he set sail for Cuba, where he had left the greater part of his collection, going thence to Philadelphia. There he remai

lutely ignored. It must be fully acknowledged that no traveller ever before did so much as Humboldt for physical geography and its kindred sciences. He was the very ideal of a traveller, and the world is indebted to him for import

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