Name: Storia comparata degli usi nuziali in Italia e presso gli altri popoli indo-europei
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Chapter 1 No.1

Come sono vestiti gli sposi.

Il lucido giorno arriva; gli sposi sono pronti a mettersi in via; prima che essi muovano e ci occupino altrimenti, osserviamone le foggie del vestire. Esse vogliono apparire solenni; ove la povertà tolga di spendere in pompose vesti, è lecito, per tal giorno, pigliarne ad imprestito, come sappiamo che avveniva alle antiche spose veneziane; ?esse non arrossivano, scrive la signora Renier Michel[287], di prendere in prestanza, per quel dì, li fregi, e sino la corona d'oro che lor venìa posta in cima al capo, qual segnale di nuove spose. Il Governo avea cura di abbigliare in pari modo quelle che venivano dotate dal pubblico; ma, finita la festa, dovevano esse restituire tutti gli ornamenti, non ritenendo per sè che la dote.?

Incominciamo dal capo della sposa; come si pettinasse solennemente presso i Romani e nell'India e si pettini fra gli Albanesi ed in Russia, abbiamo sopra veduto. Accennammo pure di sopra alla keza o cuffia o berretta delle Albanesi. La cuffia è simbolo delle donne maritate; nella Piccola Russia, quando una ragazza si è lasciata sedurre, le compagne le mettono per forza sul capo il fazzoletto a mo' di cuffia, come le donne maritate lo portano. In Germania[288], le donne maritate mettono alla sposa una cuffia, con nastro di seta rosa, mentre le non maritate cercano impedirlo. In Piemonte[289] la nuova sposa porta una cuffia a piume, in Corsica una cuffia bianca arricciata[290], a Castelnuovo Magra in Lunigiana una rete di seta rossa[291] con nappe rosse pendenti, e sopra la rete, da una parte, un piccolissimo e grazioso cappellino di paglia, dall'altra ricche ciocche di fiori, particolarmente garofani. Talora, oltre la cuffia, occorre ancora un fazzoletto o un velo, come presso le spose albanesi e le c?rse[292]; talora il velo solo, talora il velo e la corona. Ma al velo ed alla corona nuziale dovremo concedere più oltre un paio di capitoletti distinti. Onde, per finire quello ch'io so intorno alla testa della sposa, aggiungerò qui ancora come, in alcune parti del Trentino, le fanciulle portino sul capo una fogliolina verde, simbolo evidente di verginità, la quale perdono il dì delle nozze, in cui s'intrecciano ai capelli della sposa fiori finti.

Intorno al collo portano in Germania un filo rosso, che può ricordar forse il nastro rosso e nero di lana delle spose indiane[293]. Rosso è, per lo più, il fazzoletto che le spose piemontesi portano intorno al collo, e la collana de' così detti dorini (che sono ghiandette d'oro, vuoto o pieno, a più o meno giri, secondo la dote della sposa) onde esse medesime fanno la loro massima pompa, e le granate con fermaglio d'oro che ricingono il collo delle spose di Castelnuovo Magra in Lunigiana, contengono forse il medesimo simbolo, presagio più facile ad indovinarsi dal lettore che a dichiararsi da me.

La veste della sposa, secondo l'uso antico, è per lo più bianca; e l'uso si mantiene quasi universalmente presso i popoli indo-europei. Accenno come una singolarità la consuetudine di Ortonuovo in Lunigiana, ove la sposa porta una gonnella di panno nero con busto guernito di rosso allacciato sul davanti con una stringa rossa. Vuolsi poi notare come in Italia, dopo l'invenzione della seta, la vanità delle spose del contado faccia loro spesso preferire all'antica veste nuziale bianca (l'alba tunica romana), una veste di seta o nera od a vivi colori.

Intorno alla vita vedemmo già usarsi dalle spose un nastro, o cintura, per lo più di color rosso; un tal nastro portano pure gli sposi nel Trentino, legato al braccio.

Sul grembo, spesso in Italia, il grembiale; le calze, ora bianche, ora rosse; le scarpe ora rosse addirittura, ora legate con nastri di seta scarlatta.

Nell'India, vestendosi la sposa, si diceva: ?le dee, che questo (abito) hanno filato, tessuto e disteso e piegatine intorno i lembi, ti vestano fino alla vecchiaia. Vivendo a lungo, vestiti di questo. Con quell'attrattiva che è ne' dadi e nelle bevande spiritose, con quell'attrattiva che si trova ne' figli, con quell'attrattiva che ha una coscia ignuda, con quella, o A?vin, ornatela. Così noi orniamo allo sposo suo questa sposa; la rallegrino di figli Indra, Agni, Varuna, Bhaga, Soma.?

L'attenzione si fermò assai meno sopra gli abiti dello sposo; pure si può notare che trionfa anche in essi il color rosso, per lo stesso simbolo che di sopra ho accennato. Attorno al cappello, al braccio, alla vita, alle calze, alle scarpe splendono nastri rossi; ama i fiori anche lo sposo, ed ove usano le ghirlande o le corone, s'inghirlanda o s'incorona; ed ove usa il velo ei si lascia velare.

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Storia comparata degli usi nuziali in Italia e presso gli altri popoli indo-europei

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